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    Options for Document Storage on Microfilm
    Digital images stored on computer servers is currently the low-cost solution for storing documents. However, that has not always been the case. For decades, microfilm was the storage media of choice. Today many companies still have large libraries of microfilm.Over the years, many different types of microfilm have been used to store records.- Roll Film - Documents are stored on 16 mm rolls.- Microfiche - 7 rows of 14 images per sheet of film about 4 by 6 inches.- Jacket microfiche - Similar to microfiche but the strips representing all the pages of one document are placed in a special transparent "jacket."- Computer output microfilm (COM) - Captures computer output directly on film.- Engineering drawings - are normally recorded on larger 35 mm roll microfilm. Each "blueprint" is then cut off the roll and glued into a frame.Issues surrounding use of microfilmLifespan Microfilm has a long life expectancy but it must be kept in temperature and humidity controlled environment and left in special sealed containers. Only working copies should be used for retrieval purposes. No more than five working copies should be made from the master copy. Additional working copies should be made from a working copy.Some companies keep their masters in an air-conditioned room, but few businesses follow all the requirements for a long life expectancy. Many companies don't even keep their master copies in a controlled environment at all more frequently the only original is used as the working copy. These errors in usage make the lifespan of microfilm much shorter.Working copies Only working copies of roll film should be used in viewers or reader/printers. The original is viewed from the shiny base side of the film, with the emulsion on the outside of the roll. The first generation copy is viewed using the dull emulsion side of the film, with the shiny base on the outside of the roll. Reader/printers are designed to minimize the wear on the front of the film since only working copies should be used. When an original is viewed the wear is on the delicate emulsion.Image Quality Many companies did not follow good practices or standards when making the original film, so image quality is often bad. They may also have been filmed on a white background so it is hard to determine the documents edges.Retrieval Time Most people dislike microfilm, primarily because retrieval is time consuming and poor image quality makes the documents difficult to read.
    or other animal (protein) afibres.

    You will require:
    • natural wool - 100 grams
    • onion skins (the dry, brown, outer skins) - 30 grams
    • alum (the mordant) - 8 grams
    • cream of tartar (the assistant) - 7 grams
    • liquid detergent (the scouring agent)
    • water supply

    If a larger quantity of wool is to be dyed, increase the quantities to a proportionate degree. Weigh the wool. All weights mentioned above are comparative to the dry weight of the wool. Skeins of wool are tied loosely at many places to stop tangling. In this case the recipe calls for 30% dyestuff i.e. the weight of the dyestuff is 30% than that of the fabric to be dyed.

    The wool should be scoured, which means it should be fully clean. For this, the wool needs to be soaked all night in a liquid detergent solution. Then rinse the wool well and smoothly press out the extra water. Use lukewarm water and avoid sudden variations in temperature of the water which make the wool felt or mat. The skein will be the mordant. Dissolve alum and cream of tartar in a little hot water and then add the same solution to cool water in the mordant pot. Dip the wetted yarn and then put the pot on the heat source. Gradually increase the temperature to 82°C and boil for 45 minutes. Let it cool after which remove the wool and rinse well.

    To prepare the dye bath, put the onion skins in the dye pan and cover them with water. Gradually heat the dye bath to the boiling point. Boil for about 45 minutes, by which time the whole color should have been extracted from the onion skins. Remove it from the heat and allow it to cool and then strain the liquid form the skins.

    The dyeing process is then done. The mordanted and completely wetted fabric is put into the now cool dye bath. Replace the heat under the dye bath, bring the temperature to a boiling point and then immediately decrease the heat to 82°C and simmer for 45 minutes or until the wool has gained the required color. Remove the wool from the dye bath if no further process of dyeing is needed, or allow the fabric to cool with the liquid in the dye bath. Do not cool it with cold water to get quick results. When the skein of wool is cool, rinse it carefully by changing the water quite a few times until the water is clear, and then clean the skein of wool in soapy water, rinse and allow it to dry.

    Batik

    Batik is a starch resist-dyeing method developed in Indonesia. In this technique, to avoid the color entering certain areas of the fabric these areas are covered with molten wax. The fabric is starched before the design is being drawn upon it. The wax is applied with a type of cup with a fine pouring spout, normally made of copper. Batik paintings, as well as sarongs and lengths of fabric are made. When the fabric is dyed, all waxed areas resist the dyestuff. The wax is then removed by putting the fabric in boiling water.

    Tie-dyeing

    Tie-dyeing is a well known artesian dyeing method. In this resist-dyeing process, waxed thread is tightly tied around the areas selected to resist the colored dyestuff, and the fabric is dipped into the dye. The waxed thread is then removed and the fabric is dried. For each color to be added, this procedure is repeated.

    Obtaining odd colors

    Colors other than those obtained by simply using a single dye can be obtained by mixing dyes or dyeing a fabric more than once in various dye baths.

    Herbal wear

    Nowadays, herbal wear is also gaining a lot of importance due to its availability at cheaper rate and as garments used as medicine because of their medicinal properties. Generally, garments dyed with natural elements or plants, roots, seeds, flowers, leaves are called herbal wear. Herbal wear has medicinal properties:

    . It is anti-allergic.
    . It is anti-microbial.
    . It has antiseptic properties.
    . Such garments have a good breathability.
    . The fabric is also eco-friendly as the waste from such herbal dyeing can be transformed into manure. What is a Controller?
    Have you ever wondered just what the position of controller entails? The official definition of the controller position is a corporate officer responsible for the business’s accounting activities. Sometimes this position is referred to as the comptroller. This position is filled by an accountant and more often than not an accountant with a CPA designation and includes the responsibility of overseeing all financial matters for the company or in some cases a government department. We will discuss the some of the duties a controller might perform in a privately held business.Some of the key elements that fall under the purview of the controller’s responsibility are financial planning, budgeting, financial statements and their presentation to other members of the corporation, computer systems and internal controls. In a smaller company the controller may actual have hands on involvement in the every day financial activities even closely supervising the everyday bookkeeping functions. A controller may also be overseeing human resource decisions such as benefit packages. And also she/he may be directly involved in negotiations with insurance companies for these benefits and for general, liability and workman’s compensation insurance policies. A controller’s job is to oversee that every dollar spent is spent well, and every dollar coming in or going out is recorded correctly.What you may not be aware of are the legal responsibilities and obligations that a controller assumes. A controller must have access to every meeting held within the company and must have access to all information that effects the company’s business. The “buck stops” with the controller when it comes to fraud issues. This is not just a fancy title; it comes with real legal responsibilities which often exceed those of any other member of the corporation, including the CEO and members of the board. Don’t take these responsibilities lightly.

    It is believed that our color selections are mostly unconscious, yet they influence every moment of our life. Many of us have our favorite colors and often prefer wearing clothes of that particular color. Though the colors that we are fascinated with over a long period of time are in one way or another connected to our personality type, our strengths and weaknesses, as well as our potential in life. But wearing your selective styles of garments in synthetic dyes and natural color dyes is a different experience altogether.

    Dyeing is a very ancient art. It was practiced during the Bronze Age in Europe, Asia and many other regions and countries. Primitive dyeing methods involved sticking plants to fabric or rubbing crushed pigments to the cloth. The procedures became more sophisticated with time as techniques of applying natural dyes from crushed fruits, berries and other plants, which were boiled into the fabric and gave light and water fastness, were developed.

    Some of the recognized olden dyes include madder, a red dye made from the roots of the Rubia tinctorum, blue indigo from the leaves of Indigofera tinctoria, yellow from the stigmas of the saffron plant, turmeric and dogwood pulp. The first application of the blue dye, woad, favorite of the Ancient Britons, may have originated in Palestine where it was found largely. Though many natural dyes are made from metals, for example natural black color is made from recycled horseshoes and molasses, red is made from aluminum sulphate and red earth.

    Eco-friendly, economical aspects of dye

    Today, dyeing has become a specialized science and has a very complex functioning. Almost all dyestuffs are now made from synthetic compounds. This denotes that costs have highly decreased and many application and wear characteristics have largely improved. But many practitioners of the craft of natural dying still believe that natural dyes have a better visual quality, which is much more delightful to the eye. In the West, natural dyeing is now used only in handcrafts, whereas synthetic dyes are used in all commercial aspects. Some craft spinners, weavers and knitters use natural dyes for making specific features of their work. Though, in many of the developing countries natural dyes can provide not only a prosperous and wide-ranging source of dyestuff, but also the likelihood of an income through sustainable harvest and sale of these dye plants. Many dyes are prepared from tree waste or can be simply grown in market gardens. Natural dyes can provide attractive options, where relatively expensive synthetic dyes, mordant (fixatives) and other additives are imported.

    The knowledge needed for finding and extracting such dyes and mordant does often not exist, as far-reaching research work is needed to recognize appropriate plants, minerals, etc. For example, there are a variety of plants available for making natural dyes in Zambia, but because of lack of knowledge of the practice implicated in harvesting and processing the plants; little utilization is done for this natural resource. In some countries, such as India, Nigeria and Liberia, where this research has been done extensively, or where there is easy accessibility of natural dyeing, natural dyes and mordant are used widely.

    The main colors used are black from iron sulphate, blue from the Indigo plant and yellow from turmeric and pomegranate rind and peels. The rest of the colors are obtained from these kinds of natural resources as mentioned in the table.

    Sources of natural dyes

    Specialist plant and animal sources Many plants and some animals have been identified for making natural dyes. A range of parts of plants like roots, stems, barks, leaves, fruits and seeds are generally used. By-products (Particularly lac dye): The lac industry provides lac dye as a by-product, which is taken from the effluent. Likewise from cassia tora, utilized in gum production, a brown dye is obtained as a by-product.

    Chemical mixture: It is a mixture of dyes of molecular structure similar to those of natural dyes. Cell or tissue culture by DNA transfer technology: A few fungi such as Drechslera and Trichoderma make anthraquinone derivatives. Anthraquinone is a significant type of dye, where exploiting the fungi would be helpful over their chemical mixtures.

    Natural dyestuffs

    Since olden times, dyestuffs and dyeing are used in textiles and garments. Nature gives prosperity to plants which in turn offer their color for the purpose of dyeing, many being used since ancient times.

    More or less any organic material will create a color when boiled in a dye-bath, but only few plants will give a color that will work as a dye. The plants provided in Table 1 are a selection of a few plants, which are widely used traditionally as natural dyers. Natural dyes are obtained from the following categories:

    Leaves and stems
    Twigs and pruning
    Flower heads
    Barks
    Roots
    Outer skins, hulls and husks
    Heartwoods and wood shavings
    Berries and seeds
    Lichens
    Insect dyes

    Few examples of obtaining natural dyes from various sources

    Indigo: Still used by many block printers and dyers in the villages of India, Indigo gives shades of blue and some greens. Workers today utilize the same method used since olden times for natural indigo dyeing. Indigo is made in large vats made of clay that can contain at least 1000 liters of dye. These are sunken into the ground and this gives a consistent temperature to make the dye work. The indigo dye bath is prepared by using molasses and lime, and then preserved for around six months until it is exhausted. The cloth is constantly dipped and immersed in the vat and then exposed to the air to make different intensities of blue color.

    White patterns in textiles are retained by making a paste from clay mixed with wheat chaff and tree gum. The paste restricts the dye from entering the covered areas. Indigo simply binds and connects with the fibres and through washing and friction some of the indigo molecules break away. This is why Indigo rubs off on your skin and can also be cleaned easily.

    Turmeric & Pomegranate: Boiled pomegranate peels and turmeric powder are mixed to make yellow color. It is also used for over dying blue fabric to create green color.

    Natural Black Dying: In various parts of the world, the color black is made in various ways and different shades and hues. As a result, a variety of shades varying from dark plum to blue black and snake black to soot black are obtained. Indian dyes are well-known for their special application of alum and iron metallic salts that capture red and black. Iron is utilized as a mordant for black in dyeing with madder and other dying plants. In India, the syahi (mordant) is made by fermenting iron or iron oxide in rusted iron in molasses (gur), tannin, or jaggery for a period of several days. The craftsmen judge when the mordant is ready by the familiar tang in the smell. The mordant has to be applied at the proper moment of fermentation if the best performance is to be achieved. After the process a reddish black color is obtained. Jet black is obtained by adding any yellow or yellowish green mordant dye to the process. When mixed with madder, it gives red.

    Mordant

    Only some natural dyes are color-fast with fibres. Mordant are substances which are applied to fix a dye to the fibres. They also increase the take-up quality of the fabric and support it by increasing color and light-fastness. Many natural dyes, for example indigo, set without the help of a mordant. Such dyes are defined as ??substantive dyes?¦. Other dyes, such as madder and weld, have a limited fastness and the color lightens with cleaning and exposure to light.

    Mordant are found in nature. For example, wood ash or stale urine may have been utilized as an alkali mordant and acids could be found in acidic fruits or rhubarb leaves. Nowadays the majority natural dyers use chemical mordant such as alum, copper sulphate, iron or chrome.

    Mordant are made in solution, usually with the addition of an 'assistant' which increases the fixing of the mordant to the yarn or fibre. In general, the most commonly used mordant is alum, which is normally applied with cream of tartar as an additive or assistant. Other mordant are:

    . Iron (ferrous sulphate)
    . Tin (stannous chloride)
    . Chrome (bichromate of potash)
    . Copper sulphate
    . Tannic acid
    . Oxalic acid Using a variety of mordant with the same dyestuff can create different shades, for example;
     . Iron is used as a 'saddener' and also to darken colors.
    . Copper sulphate darkens and can also provide shades which are otherwise very difficult to obtain.
    . Tin perks up colors.
    . Tannic acid used with other mordant adds brightness.
    . Chrome is good for obtaining yellows.
    . Oxalic acid is ideal for extracting blues from berries.
    . Cream of Tartar is not really a mordant, but is applied to provide luster to wool.

    Mordant are normally poisonous, so it is advisable that in the dye-house they should be kept at the right place. When working with mordant, one should always wear protective clothing and avoid breathing the fumes. The mordant can be added before, during or after the dyeing stage, although much care should be taken prior to dyeing. It is appropriate to follow the instructions according to the use and process.

    As against these mordant, there are a number of plants and minerals which can give good mordant. Some of the common options are as mentioned below.

    Some plants, such as mosses and tea, contain a small amount of aluminium. This can be used as an alternative to alum. It is hard to recognize how much quantity of aluminium will be present. . Iron water can be used as an option for ferrous sulphate.
    . Oak galls or sumach leaves can be used as an alternate to tannic acid.
    . Rhubarb leaves possess oxalic acid.

    The selection of mordant for a specific plant is dependant upon the material with which it will be used. It is necessary to ensure a recipe before using a plant. It is suggested that plants be grown particularly for the use of dyeing.

    Textile fibers and dyeing

    Natural dyes can be used for majority types of material or fibre, but the standard of success in terms of fastness and clarity of color differs significantly. Users of natural dyes, though, are likely to also use natural fibres. Natural fibres are available mainly in two distinct origins, animal origin or vegetable origin. Fibres from an animal origin cover wool, silk, mohair and alpaca, as well as some others which are less accepted. While animal fibres are based on proteins, natural dyes have a well-built attraction to fibres of animal origin, particularly wool, silk and mohair and the outcome of these fibres are normally excellent. Fibres of plant origin include cotton, flax or linen, ramie, jute, hemp and many others. Plant fibres possess cellulose as their basic ingredient. Natural dyeing of such plant based textiles can be less gleeful than their animal equivalent. Various mordant methods are used for each category. When a mixture of fibre of both animal and plant origin is being dyed, then a method should be selected which will stress on the fibre which is required to be dominant.

    Dye testing

    It is always beneficial to test the dye, which is to be applied, on a sample of the yarn or fabric to be dyed. The result will depend on the fabric, the mordant that has been used and dye that has been selected. It can then be tested for light, water and washing fastness by applying simple standard test methods. Below explains a simple test for washing fastness. Similar tests are available for water and light fastness. Treatment of the plant can be done in many ways, but usually it is done in the form of soaking or boiling the plant to extract the dye. Few plants, such as indigo, require a unique preparation for application; few require boiling to extract their dye, while others can merely be soaked for long periods.

    Test procedure for fastness to washing

    To test fastness one must follow a step by step procedure:

    1. Take two pieces of fabric of 5cm by 5cm, one of which is undyed cotton and the other undyed wool. Stitch them closely at one side.

    2. Take some sample strips of the dyed yarn and spread them evenly between the two pieces of cloth, so that they overlap both sides. If dyed fibre is being tested, a combed sample can be used as an alternate option of the yarn.

    3. Sew around all four sides of the cloth so that the yarn is kept in place.

    4. Make a similar sample with dyed materials that has suitable properties and put them in two jars with screw lids with a solution of 5gm per liter detergent solution at 30 degree Celsius.

    5. Agitate the two jars for 30 minutes, then remove the fabrics and wash them in clean water for 5 minutes. Open the stitches and take separate the pieces to dry in air.

    Examination: 6. Put the dyed yarn next to a sample of the same material which has not been tested, and compare the change that has taken place. Compare it also with the control sample with satisfactory properties. If the dyeing being tested shows equal or less variation then it is a good and satisfactory sample.

    7. Put the wool and cotton clothes next to samples of the same material which have not been tested and analyze them with the clothes that have been tested with satisfactory dyeing. Equal or less staining illustrates equal or better fastness.

    The procedure of dyeing

    Function of the Dye

    Dyeing can be done at any of the following steps in the textile production stage:
    . The fibres can be dyed before being spun. Fibre dyeing gives a deep penetration of the dye into the fibre, providing even color and outstanding color-fastness.
    . After spinning, the yarn can be dyed, but before the product is woven or otherwise fabricated. This is referred as Package dyeing.
    . Before the fabric is finished, it can be dyed in piece (piece dyeing).This process gives producers the opportunity to make fabrics in their natural colors, and then dye them to order.
    . Fabrics of two or more fibres can be dyed in cross-dyeing, so that each fibre accepts a different dyestuff and becomes a different color, through the use of suitable dyestuffs for each fibre. It is necessary to correctly identify the fibre or other fabric to be made before dyeing commences.

    Dyeing methods

    There are a many methods used to dye to a fabric. Though the most common method applied for natural dyes is the vat method, there are practices which have been developed to allow patterns to be built-in during the process of dyeing. Applying natural dyes is a complicated art and the skills needed for using natural dyes are gained with an experience of many years.

    Vat dyeing

    In this easiest way of dyeing, a textile material is dipped in dye and slowly brought to boil. Alternatively, the fibre is permitted to sit and soak for few hours or days. In this period, agitation is necessary to facilitate complete penetration of the textile by the dyestuff. According to the type of fabric and dyestuff applied, few salts or acids may be added to help absorption of the dye. The main problem in dyeing mixed yarns and fabrics is to receive the same color in both fibres. Cotton fibres may, for example absorbs dyes fast, while the wool fibres will have to be boiled over a so long time to achieve the same depth of shade. This could lead to a noteworthy damage to the material. In this case a chemical compound would be needed to be applied to hold back the rate at which the cotton fibre receives the dyestuff. The amount of dyestuff which is applied is normally provided in the recipe. It is normally quoted as a percentage weight of the fabric to be dyed.

    Below illustrates a standard, simple recipe for dyeing using natural dyestuff

    Recipe of dyeing wool with onion skins

    Fabric: appropriate for wool or other animal (protein) afibres.

    You will require:
    • natural wool - 100 grams
    • onion skins (the dry, brown, outer skins) - 30 grams
    • alum (the mordant) - 8 grams
    • cream of tartar (the assistant) - 7 grams
    • liquid detergent (the scouring agent)
    • water supply

    If a larger quantity of wool is to be dyed, increase the quantities to a proportionate degree. Weigh the wool. All weights mentioned above are comparative to the dry weight of the wool. Skeins of wool are tied loosely at many places to stop tangling. In this case the recipe calls for 30% dyestuff i.e. the weight of the dyestuff is 30% than that of the fabric to be dyed.

    The wool should be scoured, which means it should be fully clean. For this, the wool needs to be soaked all night in a liquid detergent solution. Then rinse the wool well and smoothly press out the extra water. Use lukewarm water and avoid sudden variations in temperature of the water which make the wool felt or mat. The skein will be the mordant. Dissolve alum and cream of tartar in a little hot water and then add the same solution to cool water in the mordant pot. Dip the wetted yarn and then put the pot on the heat source. Gradually increase the temperature to 82°C and boil for 45 minutes. Let it cool after which remove the wool and rinse well.

    To prepare the dye bath, put the onion skins in the dye pan and cover them with water. Gradually heat the dye bath to the boiling point. Boil for about 45 minutes, by which time the whole color should have been extracted from the onion skins. Remove it from the heat and allow it to cool and then strain the liquid form the skins.

    The dyeing process is then done. The mordanted and completely wetted fabric is put into the now cool dye bath. Replace the heat under the dye bath, bring the temperature to a boiling point and then immediately decrease the heat to 82°C and simmer for 45 minutes or until the wool has gained the required color. Remove the wool from the dye bath if no further process of dyeing is needed, or allow the fabric to cool with the liquid in the dye bath. Do not cool it with cold water to get quick results. When the skein of wool is cool, rinse it carefully by changing the water quite a few times until the water is clear, and then clean the skein of wool in soapy water, rinse and allow it to dry.

    Batik

    Batik is a starch resist-dyeing method developed in Indonesia. In this technique, to avoid the color entering certain areas of the fabric these areas are covered with molten wax. The fabric is starched before the design is being drawn upon it. The wax is applied with a type of cup with a fine pouring spout, normally made of copper. Batik paintings, as well as sarongs and lengths of fabric are made. When the fabric is dyed, all waxed areas resist the dyestuff. The wax is then removed by putting the fabric in boiling water.

    Tie-dyeing

    Tie-dyeing is a well known artesian dyeing method. In this resist-dyeing process, waxed thread is tightly tied around the areas selected to resist the colored dyestuff, and the fabric is dipped into the dye. The waxed thread is then removed and the fabric is dried. For each color to be added, this procedure is repeated.

    Obtaining odd colors

    Colors other than those obtained by simply using a single dye can be obtained by mixing dyes or dyeing a fabric more than once in various dye baths.

    Herbal wear

    Nowadays, herbal wear is also gaining a lot of importance due to its availability at cheaper rate and as garments used as medicine because of their medicinal properties. Generally, garments dyed with natural elements or plants, roots, seeds, flowers, leaves are called herbal wear. Herbal wear has medicinal properties:

    . It is anti-allergic.
    . It is anti-microbial.
    . It has antiseptic properties.
    . Such garments have a good breathability.
    . The fabric is also eco-friendly as the waste from such herbal dyeing can be transformed into manure.

    Choosing the Right T-shirt Printing Equipment
    The heat press is arguably the most important component of any T-shirt printing business. Without a high quality model, you’ll find your final prints lacking colour and/or clarity. It’s very important to gauge both the heat and pressure of your transfers. Picking the right heat press will ensure consistency throughout. So what are your options?For the absolute beginners and those with space to consider, the Clam Type Press is a great choice. It has a small frame so you won’t find it consuming half of your living room. On the next step up is the Swing Press, which is a modified design. This improves speed and accuracy of printing by allowing easier access to the T-shirt you are printing.If you’re looking to mass produce, you’d be well advised to invest in a Pneumatic Press. These machines are more expensive but they work more efficiently with precise heat and pressure application. Companies such as Xpres and Target Transfers supply full ranges of heat presses.Once you have a quality heat press, the next step is to invest in an efficient printer. And now you’re faced with the golden question – ink jet or laser?Both printer technologies have their pros and cons. Ink jet devices are much cheaper to buy than their laser counterparts. The advantage of ink jet printers is that they produce bright colour with vibrant contrast. The downside is that the ink can be expensive. The texture of the print from an inkjet printer is different to T-shirts that have been commercially printedCan you accept a slightly less professional texture, in exchange for a reduced set up cost and brighter colour? If so, an ink jet brand is the printer for you.Laser printers, on the other hand, are renowned for producing prints which will last for a much longer period of time. They aren’t blessed with the same bright colour output, and they’re also more expensive.The huge incentive of laser printing is that the fabric will retain a more natural feel. In other words, it won’t feel as if you’ve pressed a design on to it. For professional output, this is extremely appealing.In terms of brand names, you’ll find that the major printer brands (Hewlet Packard, Canon, Epson) will have a printer in their range that will meet your requirements.For sublimation printing, you may need to invest in a different kind of printer – along with special inks. Xpres produce their own brand of Subli-Print sublimation inks. These are specifically catered for the heat sensitivity that the sublimation process requires. It’s possible to buy a low budget printer from a dealer like
    lar structure similar to those of natural dyes. Cell or tissue culture by DNA transfer technology: A few fungi such as Drechslera and Trichoderma make anthraquinone derivatives. Anthraquinone is a significant type of dye, where exploiting the fungi would be helpful over their chemical mixtures.

    Natural dyestuffs

    Since olden times, dyestuffs and dyeing are used in textiles and garments. Nature gives prosperity to plants which in turn offer their color for the purpose of dyeing, many being used since ancient times.

    More or less any organic material will create a color when boiled in a dye-bath, but only few plants will give a color that will work as a dye. The plants provided in Table 1 are a selection of a few plants, which are widely used traditionally as natural dyers. Natural dyes are obtained from the following categories:

    Leaves and stems
    Twigs and pruning
    Flower heads
    Barks
    Roots
    Outer skins, hulls and husks
    Heartwoods and wood shavings
    Berries and seeds
    Lichens
    Insect dyes

    Few examples of obtaining natural dyes from various sources

    Indigo: Still used by many block printers and dyers in the villages of India, Indigo gives shades of blue and some greens. Workers today utilize the same method used since olden times for natural indigo dyeing. Indigo is made in large vats made of clay that can contain at least 1000 liters of dye. These are sunken into the ground and this gives a consistent temperature to make the dye work. The indigo dye bath is prepared by using molasses and lime, and then preserved for around six months until it is exhausted. The cloth is constantly dipped and immersed in the vat and then exposed to the air to make different intensities of blue color.

    White patterns in textiles are retained by making a paste from clay mixed with wheat chaff and tree gum. The paste restricts the dye from entering the covered areas. Indigo simply binds and connects with the fibres and through washing and friction some of the indigo molecules break away. This is why Indigo rubs off on your skin and can also be cleaned easily.

    Turmeric & Pomegranate: Boiled pomegranate peels and turmeric powder are mixed to make yellow color. It is also used for over dying blue fabric to create green color.

    Natural Black Dying: In various parts of the world, the color black is made in various ways and different shades and hues. As a result, a variety of shades varying from dark plum to blue black and snake black to soot black are obtained. Indian dyes are well-known for their special application of alum and iron metallic salts that capture red and black. Iron is utilized as a mordant for black in dyeing with madder and other dying plants. In India, the syahi (mordant) is made by fermenting iron or iron oxide in rusted iron in molasses (gur), tannin, or jaggery for a period of several days. The craftsmen judge when the mordant is ready by the familiar tang in the smell. The mordant has to be applied at the proper moment of fermentation if the best performance is to be achieved. After the process a reddish black color is obtained. Jet black is obtained by adding any yellow or yellowish green mordant dye to the process. When mixed with madder, it gives red.

    Mordant

    Only some natural dyes are color-fast with fibres. Mordant are substances which are applied to fix a dye to the fibres. They also increase the take-up quality of the fabric and support it by increasing color and light-fastness. Many natural dyes, for example indigo, set without the help of a mordant. Such dyes are defined as ??substantive dyes?¦. Other dyes, such as madder and weld, have a limited fastness and the color lightens with cleaning and exposure to light.

    Mordant are found in nature. For example, wood ash or stale urine may have been utilized as an alkali mordant and acids could be found in acidic fruits or rhubarb leaves. Nowadays the majority natural dyers use chemical mordant such as alum, copper sulphate, iron or chrome.

    Mordant are made in solution, usually with the addition of an 'assistant' which increases the fixing of the mordant to the yarn or fibre. In general, the most commonly used mordant is alum, which is normally applied with cream of tartar as an additive or assistant. Other mordant are:

    . Iron (ferrous sulphate)
    . Tin (stannous chloride)
    . Chrome (bichromate of potash)
    . Copper sulphate
    . Tannic acid
    . Oxalic acid Using a variety of mordant with the same dyestuff can create different shades, for example;
     . Iron is used as a 'saddener' and also to darken colors.
    . Copper sulphate darkens and can also provide shades which are otherwise very difficult to obtain.
    . Tin perks up colors.
    . Tannic acid used with other mordant adds brightness.
    . Chrome is good for obtaining yellows.
    . Oxalic acid is ideal for extracting blues from berries.
    . Cream of Tartar is not really a mordant, but is applied to provide luster to wool.

    Mordant are normally poisonous, so it is advisable that in the dye-house they should be kept at the right place. When working with mordant, one should always wear protective clothing and avoid breathing the fumes. The mordant can be added before, during or after the dyeing stage, although much care should be taken prior to dyeing. It is appropriate to follow the instructions according to the use and process.

    As against these mordant, there are a number of plants and minerals which can give good mordant. Some of the common options are as mentioned below.

    Some plants, such as mosses and tea, contain a small amount of aluminium. This can be used as an alternative to alum. It is hard to recognize how much quantity of aluminium will be present. . Iron water can be used as an option for ferrous sulphate.
    . Oak galls or sumach leaves can be used as an alternate to tannic acid.
    . Rhubarb leaves possess oxalic acid.

    The selection of mordant for a specific plant is dependant upon the material with which it will be used. It is necessary to ensure a recipe before using a plant. It is suggested that plants be grown particularly for the use of dyeing.

    Textile fibers and dyeing

    Natural dyes can be used for majority types of material or fibre, but the standard of success in terms of fastness and clarity of color differs significantly. Users of natural dyes, though, are likely to also use natural fibres. Natural fibres are available mainly in two distinct origins, animal origin or vegetable origin. Fibres from an animal origin cover wool, silk, mohair and alpaca, as well as some others which are less accepted. While animal fibres are based on proteins, natural dyes have a well-built attraction to fibres of animal origin, particularly wool, silk and mohair and the outcome of these fibres are normally excellent. Fibres of plant origin include cotton, flax or linen, ramie, jute, hemp and many others. Plant fibres possess cellulose as their basic ingredient. Natural dyeing of such plant based textiles can be less gleeful than their animal equivalent. Various mordant methods are used for each category. When a mixture of fibre of both animal and plant origin is being dyed, then a method should be selected which will stress on the fibre which is required to be dominant.

    Dye testing

    It is always beneficial to test the dye, which is to be applied, on a sample of the yarn or fabric to be dyed. The result will depend on the fabric, the mordant that has been used and dye that has been selected. It can then be tested for light, water and washing fastness by applying simple standard test methods. Below explains a simple test for washing fastness. Similar tests are available for water and light fastness. Treatment of the plant can be done in many ways, but usually it is done in the form of soaking or boiling the plant to extract the dye. Few plants, such as indigo, require a unique preparation for application; few require boiling to extract their dye, while others can merely be soaked for long periods.

    Test procedure for fastness to washing

    To test fastness one must follow a step by step procedure:

    1. Take two pieces of fabric of 5cm by 5cm, one of which is undyed cotton and the other undyed wool. Stitch them closely at one side.

    2. Take some sample strips of the dyed yarn and spread them evenly between the two pieces of cloth, so that they overlap both sides. If dyed fibre is being tested, a combed sample can be used as an alternate option of the yarn.

    3. Sew around all four sides of the cloth so that the yarn is kept in place.

    4. Make a similar sample with dyed materials that has suitable properties and put them in two jars with screw lids with a solution of 5gm per liter detergent solution at 30 degree Celsius.

    5. Agitate the two jars for 30 minutes, then remove the fabrics and wash them in clean water for 5 minutes. Open the stitches and take separate the pieces to dry in air.

    Examination: 6. Put the dyed yarn next to a sample of the same material which has not been tested, and compare the change that has taken place. Compare it also with the control sample with satisfactory properties. If the dyeing being tested shows equal or less variation then it is a good and satisfactory sample.

    7. Put the wool and cotton clothes next to samples of the same material which have not been tested and analyze them with the clothes that have been tested with satisfactory dyeing. Equal or less staining illustrates equal or better fastness.

    The procedure of dyeing

    Function of the Dye

    Dyeing can be done at any of the following steps in the textile production stage:
    . The fibres can be dyed before being spun. Fibre dyeing gives a deep penetration of the dye into the fibre, providing even color and outstanding color-fastness.
    . After spinning, the yarn can be dyed, but before the product is woven or otherwise fabricated. This is referred as Package dyeing.
    . Before the fabric is finished, it can be dyed in piece (piece dyeing).This process gives producers the opportunity to make fabrics in their natural colors, and then dye them to order.
    . Fabrics of two or more fibres can be dyed in cross-dyeing, so that each fibre accepts a different dyestuff and becomes a different color, through the use of suitable dyestuffs for each fibre. It is necessary to correctly identify the fibre or other fabric to be made before dyeing commences.

    Dyeing methods

    There are a many methods used to dye to a fabric. Though the most common method applied for natural dyes is the vat method, there are practices which have been developed to allow patterns to be built-in during the process of dyeing. Applying natural dyes is a complicated art and the skills needed for using natural dyes are gained with an experience of many years.

    Vat dyeing

    In this easiest way of dyeing, a textile material is dipped in dye and slowly brought to boil. Alternatively, the fibre is permitted to sit and soak for few hours or days. In this period, agitation is necessary to facilitate complete penetration of the textile by the dyestuff. According to the type of fabric and dyestuff applied, few salts or acids may be added to help absorption of the dye. The main problem in dyeing mixed yarns and fabrics is to receive the same color in both fibres. Cotton fibres may, for example absorbs dyes fast, while the wool fibres will have to be boiled over a so long time to achieve the same depth of shade. This could lead to a noteworthy damage to the material. In this case a chemical compound would be needed to be applied to hold back the rate at which the cotton fibre receives the dyestuff. The amount of dyestuff which is applied is normally provided in the recipe. It is normally quoted as a percentage weight of the fabric to be dyed.

    Below illustrates a standard, simple recipe for dyeing using natural dyestuff

    Recipe of dyeing wool with onion skins

    Fabric: appropriate for wool or other animal (protein) afibres.

    You will require:
    • natural wool - 100 grams
    • onion skins (the dry, brown, outer skins) - 30 grams
    • alum (the mordant) - 8 grams
    • cream of tartar (the assistant) - 7 grams
    • liquid detergent (the scouring agent)
    • water supply

    If a larger quantity of wool is to be dyed, increase the quantities to a proportionate degree. Weigh the wool. All weights mentioned above are comparative to the dry weight of the wool. Skeins of wool are tied loosely at many places to stop tangling. In this case the recipe calls for 30% dyestuff i.e. the weight of the dyestuff is 30% than that of the fabric to be dyed.

    The wool should be scoured, which means it should be fully clean. For this, the wool needs to be soaked all night in a liquid detergent solution. Then rinse the wool well and smoothly press out the extra water. Use lukewarm water and avoid sudden variations in temperature of the water which make the wool felt or mat. The skein will be the mordant. Dissolve alum and cream of tartar in a little hot water and then add the same solution to cool water in the mordant pot. Dip the wetted yarn and then put the pot on the heat source. Gradually increase the temperature to 82°C and boil for 45 minutes. Let it cool after which remove the wool and rinse well.

    To prepare the dye bath, put the onion skins in the dye pan and cover them with water. Gradually heat the dye bath to the boiling point. Boil for about 45 minutes, by which time the whole color should have been extracted from the onion skins. Remove it from the heat and allow it to cool and then strain the liquid form the skins.

    The dyeing process is then done. The mordanted and completely wetted fabric is put into the now cool dye bath. Replace the heat under the dye bath, bring the temperature to a boiling point and then immediately decrease the heat to 82°C and simmer for 45 minutes or until the wool has gained the required color. Remove the wool from the dye bath if no further process of dyeing is needed, or allow the fabric to cool with the liquid in the dye bath. Do not cool it with cold water to get quick results. When the skein of wool is cool, rinse it carefully by changing the water quite a few times until the water is clear, and then clean the skein of wool in soapy water, rinse and allow it to dry.

    Batik

    Batik is a starch resist-dyeing method developed in Indonesia. In this technique, to avoid the color entering certain areas of the fabric these areas are covered with molten wax. The fabric is starched before the design is being drawn upon it. The wax is applied with a type of cup with a fine pouring spout, normally made of copper. Batik paintings, as well as sarongs and lengths of fabric are made. When the fabric is dyed, all waxed areas resist the dyestuff. The wax is then removed by putting the fabric in boiling water.

    Tie-dyeing

    Tie-dyeing is a well known artesian dyeing method. In this resist-dyeing process, waxed thread is tightly tied around the areas selected to resist the colored dyestuff, and the fabric is dipped into the dye. The waxed thread is then removed and the fabric is dried. For each color to be added, this procedure is repeated.

    Obtaining odd colors

    Colors other than those obtained by simply using a single dye can be obtained by mixing dyes or dyeing a fabric more than once in various dye baths.

    Herbal wear

    Nowadays, herbal wear is also gaining a lot of importance due to its availability at cheaper rate and as garments used as medicine because of their medicinal properties. Generally, garments dyed with natural elements or plants, roots, seeds, flowers, leaves are called herbal wear. Herbal wear has medicinal properties:

    . It is anti-allergic.
    . It is anti-microbial.
    . It has antiseptic properties.
    . Such garments have a good breathability.
    . The fabric is also eco-friendly as the waste from such herbal dyeing can be transformed into manure. The Business of Art Workshops: Creating Your Own Job Security
    Recent articles suggest that many Americans work overtime hours for free. Especially with salaried jobs that are based on hourly wages for a 40 hour week, most hard working career minded individuals are willing to stay long past their 8 hour work day. They don’t want to feel worthless. But, they average nearly an extra full day per week.If they were to leave exactly when their eight hours were up, they think their boss is looking and will consider them slackers for leaving right on time. What a mentality to have! If you get paid for 8 hours a day, you should put your nose to the grindstone and get your work finished so that you can leave on time. That shouldn’t be considered slacking at all.But, most hard working career minded individuals are always thinking about job security and promotion. They think that if they give all that time for free that it will pay off one day in the long run. Budget cuts never enter their mind. Cut backs and downsizing is not part of their plan.If you were to turn that script around, you would find that working for yourself will produce much better results. Running an art workshop center like I do, I still have time for my own children. I have time for many things and my art workshop center thrives.I set my own hours. I can work around everyone’s schedule running small workshops at different times of the day. I can afford to put in about 4 or 5 hours a day and call it quits. The rest of the day is mine to do as I wish.Running a workshop center for 4 or 5 hours spread throughout the day still allows me enough time to teach hundreds of students. It’s not difficult, especially when you put about 10 students in a class. That’s a small enough class to keep track of everyone’s growth. It’s also enough to provide for a thriving art workshop center.I’m putting my own life and my own future into my hands. I’m not relying on a job to give me future security. I’m not relying on something that may or may not be there regardless of my contribution. If I work my art workshop center properly, it will be there for years to come. That’s the kind of security I need. or chrome.

    Mordant are made in solution, usually with the addition of an 'assistant' which increases the fixing of the mordant to the yarn or fibre. In general, the most commonly used mordant is alum, which is normally applied with cream of tartar as an additive or assistant. Other mordant are:

    . Iron (ferrous sulphate)
    . Tin (stannous chloride)
    . Chrome (bichromate of potash)
    . Copper sulphate
    . Tannic acid
    . Oxalic acid Using a variety of mordant with the same dyestuff can create different shades, for example;
     . Iron is used as a 'saddener' and also to darken colors.
    . Copper sulphate darkens and can also provide shades which are otherwise very difficult to obtain.
    . Tin perks up colors.
    . Tannic acid used with other mordant adds brightness.
    . Chrome is good for obtaining yellows.
    . Oxalic acid is ideal for extracting blues from berries.
    . Cream of Tartar is not really a mordant, but is applied to provide luster to wool.

    Mordant are normally poisonous, so it is advisable that in the dye-house they should be kept at the right place. When working with mordant, one should always wear protective clothing and avoid breathing the fumes. The mordant can be added before, during or after the dyeing stage, although much care should be taken prior to dyeing. It is appropriate to follow the instructions according to the use and process.

    As against these mordant, there are a number of plants and minerals which can give good mordant. Some of the common options are as mentioned below.

    Some plants, such as mosses and tea, contain a small amount of aluminium. This can be used as an alternative to alum. It is hard to recognize how much quantity of aluminium will be present. . Iron water can be used as an option for ferrous sulphate.
    . Oak galls or sumach leaves can be used as an alternate to tannic acid.
    . Rhubarb leaves possess oxalic acid.

    The selection of mordant for a specific plant is dependant upon the material with which it will be used. It is necessary to ensure a recipe before using a plant. It is suggested that plants be grown particularly for the use of dyeing.

    Textile fibers and dyeing

    Natural dyes can be used for majority types of material or fibre, but the standard of success in terms of fastness and clarity of color differs significantly. Users of natural dyes, though, are likely to also use natural fibres. Natural fibres are available mainly in two distinct origins, animal origin or vegetable origin. Fibres from an animal origin cover wool, silk, mohair and alpaca, as well as some others which are less accepted. While animal fibres are based on proteins, natural dyes have a well-built attraction to fibres of animal origin, particularly wool, silk and mohair and the outcome of these fibres are normally excellent. Fibres of plant origin include cotton, flax or linen, ramie, jute, hemp and many others. Plant fibres possess cellulose as their basic ingredient. Natural dyeing of such plant based textiles can be less gleeful than their animal equivalent. Various mordant methods are used for each category. When a mixture of fibre of both animal and plant origin is being dyed, then a method should be selected which will stress on the fibre which is required to be dominant.

    Dye testing

    It is always beneficial to test the dye, which is to be applied, on a sample of the yarn or fabric to be dyed. The result will depend on the fabric, the mordant that has been used and dye that has been selected. It can then be tested for light, water and washing fastness by applying simple standard test methods. Below explains a simple test for washing fastness. Similar tests are available for water and light fastness. Treatment of the plant can be done in many ways, but usually it is done in the form of soaking or boiling the plant to extract the dye. Few plants, such as indigo, require a unique preparation for application; few require boiling to extract their dye, while others can merely be soaked for long periods.

    Test procedure for fastness to washing

    To test fastness one must follow a step by step procedure:

    1. Take two pieces of fabric of 5cm by 5cm, one of which is undyed cotton and the other undyed wool. Stitch them closely at one side.

    2. Take some sample strips of the dyed yarn and spread them evenly between the two pieces of cloth, so that they overlap both sides. If dyed fibre is being tested, a combed sample can be used as an alternate option of the yarn.

    3. Sew around all four sides of the cloth so that the yarn is kept in place.

    4. Make a similar sample with dyed materials that has suitable properties and put them in two jars with screw lids with a solution of 5gm per liter detergent solution at 30 degree Celsius.

    5. Agitate the two jars for 30 minutes, then remove the fabrics and wash them in clean water for 5 minutes. Open the stitches and take separate the pieces to dry in air.

    Examination: 6. Put the dyed yarn next to a sample of the same material which has not been tested, and compare the change that has taken place. Compare it also with the control sample with satisfactory properties. If the dyeing being tested shows equal or less variation then it is a good and satisfactory sample.

    7. Put the wool and cotton clothes next to samples of the same material which have not been tested and analyze them with the clothes that have been tested with satisfactory dyeing. Equal or less staining illustrates equal or better fastness.

    The procedure of dyeing

    Function of the Dye

    Dyeing can be done at any of the following steps in the textile production stage:
    . The fibres can be dyed before being spun. Fibre dyeing gives a deep penetration of the dye into the fibre, providing even color and outstanding color-fastness.
    . After spinning, the yarn can be dyed, but before the product is woven or otherwise fabricated. This is referred as Package dyeing.
    . Before the fabric is finished, it can be dyed in piece (piece dyeing).This process gives producers the opportunity to make fabrics in their natural colors, and then dye them to order.
    . Fabrics of two or more fibres can be dyed in cross-dyeing, so that each fibre accepts a different dyestuff and becomes a different color, through the use of suitable dyestuffs for each fibre. It is necessary to correctly identify the fibre or other fabric to be made before dyeing commences.

    Dyeing methods

    There are a many methods used to dye to a fabric. Though the most common method applied for natural dyes is the vat method, there are practices which have been developed to allow patterns to be built-in during the process of dyeing. Applying natural dyes is a complicated art and the skills needed for using natural dyes are gained with an experience of many years.

    Vat dyeing

    In this easiest way of dyeing, a textile material is dipped in dye and slowly brought to boil. Alternatively, the fibre is permitted to sit and soak for few hours or days. In this period, agitation is necessary to facilitate complete penetration of the textile by the dyestuff. According to the type of fabric and dyestuff applied, few salts or acids may be added to help absorption of the dye. The main problem in dyeing mixed yarns and fabrics is to receive the same color in both fibres. Cotton fibres may, for example absorbs dyes fast, while the wool fibres will have to be boiled over a so long time to achieve the same depth of shade. This could lead to a noteworthy damage to the material. In this case a chemical compound would be needed to be applied to hold back the rate at which the cotton fibre receives the dyestuff. The amount of dyestuff which is applied is normally provided in the recipe. It is normally quoted as a percentage weight of the fabric to be dyed.

    Below illustrates a standard, simple recipe for dyeing using natural dyestuff

    Recipe of dyeing wool with onion skins

    Fabric: appropriate for wool or other animal (protein) afibres.

    You will require:
    • natural wool - 100 grams
    • onion skins (the dry, brown, outer skins) - 30 grams
    • alum (the mordant) - 8 grams
    • cream of tartar (the assistant) - 7 grams
    • liquid detergent (the scouring agent)
    • water supply

    If a larger quantity of wool is to be dyed, increase the quantities to a proportionate degree. Weigh the wool. All weights mentioned above are comparative to the dry weight of the wool. Skeins of wool are tied loosely at many places to stop tangling. In this case the recipe calls for 30% dyestuff i.e. the weight of the dyestuff is 30% than that of the fabric to be dyed.

    The wool should be scoured, which means it should be fully clean. For this, the wool needs to be soaked all night in a liquid detergent solution. Then rinse the wool well and smoothly press out the extra water. Use lukewarm water and avoid sudden variations in temperature of the water which make the wool felt or mat. The skein will be the mordant. Dissolve alum and cream of tartar in a little hot water and then add the same solution to cool water in the mordant pot. Dip the wetted yarn and then put the pot on the heat source. Gradually increase the temperature to 82°C and boil for 45 minutes. Let it cool after which remove the wool and rinse well.

    To prepare the dye bath, put the onion skins in the dye pan and cover them with water. Gradually heat the dye bath to the boiling point. Boil for about 45 minutes, by which time the whole color should have been extracted from the onion skins. Remove it from the heat and allow it to cool and then strain the liquid form the skins.

    The dyeing process is then done. The mordanted and completely wetted fabric is put into the now cool dye bath. Replace the heat under the dye bath, bring the temperature to a boiling point and then immediately decrease the heat to 82°C and simmer for 45 minutes or until the wool has gained the required color. Remove the wool from the dye bath if no further process of dyeing is needed, or allow the fabric to cool with the liquid in the dye bath. Do not cool it with cold water to get quick results. When the skein of wool is cool, rinse it carefully by changing the water quite a few times until the water is clear, and then clean the skein of wool in soapy water, rinse and allow it to dry.

    Batik

    Batik is a starch resist-dyeing method developed in Indonesia. In this technique, to avoid the color entering certain areas of the fabric these areas are covered with molten wax. The fabric is starched before the design is being drawn upon it. The wax is applied with a type of cup with a fine pouring spout, normally made of copper. Batik paintings, as well as sarongs and lengths of fabric are made. When the fabric is dyed, all waxed areas resist the dyestuff. The wax is then removed by putting the fabric in boiling water.

    Tie-dyeing

    Tie-dyeing is a well known artesian dyeing method. In this resist-dyeing process, waxed thread is tightly tied around the areas selected to resist the colored dyestuff, and the fabric is dipped into the dye. The waxed thread is then removed and the fabric is dried. For each color to be added, this procedure is repeated.

    Obtaining odd colors

    Colors other than those obtained by simply using a single dye can be obtained by mixing dyes or dyeing a fabric more than once in various dye baths.

    Herbal wear

    Nowadays, herbal wear is also gaining a lot of importance due to its availability at cheaper rate and as garments used as medicine because of their medicinal properties. Generally, garments dyed with natural elements or plants, roots, seeds, flowers, leaves are called herbal wear. Herbal wear has medicinal properties:

    . It is anti-allergic.
    . It is anti-microbial.
    . It has antiseptic properties.
    . Such garments have a good breathability.
    . The fabric is also eco-friendly as the waste from such herbal dyeing can be transformed into manure. Finally Exposed! The Ultimate Wealth Package--Is It A Scam? Read Our Review
    Are these business options lawful? Read this and find out. Consider who you might trust to grant you such a handsome profit! There are many self-declared specialists on the subject of getting rich through the internet, but unfortunately the vast majority of them are charlatans or theory-creators. Mark Warren is a different story. He is an internet guru who made millions of dollars online at the modest age of twenty-two.Besides that, he has helped an incredible number of people (from needy small clients to huge companies) to make money through marketing online. Mark’s Ultimate Wealth Package was the first program declared authorization by the Better Entrepreneurs Bureau.Mark now has an authorized online marketing practice, so he obviously has quite a good idea on the subject. However, Mark is a typical computer Nerd, and as such he is highly solitary. This, combined with his countless engagements and obligations, makes a personal meeting with him nearly out of the question. Yet, this year Mark gave a one-day seminar, just a small group of online marketers was invited, and the entry fee was 2495 dollars! Let me tell you the basic things said there.A Seminar Audience that is So Hard to PleaseMark assigned me the task to pick a few realistic contractors, who also had to be skillful marketers from various business areas. He expected them to ask him explicit, practical, upright questions, starting with how.I carried out my task conscientiously and included myself in the selected group; then we piled him with hard questions, just like he wanted. He answered us with reliable information, tested examples and the most helpful tips I have ever come across throughout my marketing research and career.Although I am very hard to convince about anything, I admit that Marks methods are simply and easily profitable for any online marketer. Not that I attend seminars all the time. And whenever I do, I usually leave disillusioned. However, Mark’s seminar is something I am happy I had the chance to experience.I would recommend anyone who wants to make money online to attend ’seminar if possible, but unfortunately Mark has no intention of going through this one more time. The only reason he ever decided to do it was the taping, the whole seminar was recorded and printed later on. So now you have the chance of getting all the information from that seminar and study it on your own PC.What Your Benefit Will Be?To begin with, you will get an explicit explanation of what online marketing is about, how it should be done, its advantages and disadvaye, while others can merely be soaked for long periods.

    Test procedure for fastness to washing

    To test fastness one must follow a step by step procedure:

    1. Take two pieces of fabric of 5cm by 5cm, one of which is undyed cotton and the other undyed wool. Stitch them closely at one side.

    2. Take some sample strips of the dyed yarn and spread them evenly between the two pieces of cloth, so that they overlap both sides. If dyed fibre is being tested, a combed sample can be used as an alternate option of the yarn.

    3. Sew around all four sides of the cloth so that the yarn is kept in place.

    4. Make a similar sample with dyed materials that has suitable properties and put them in two jars with screw lids with a solution of 5gm per liter detergent solution at 30 degree Celsius.

    5. Agitate the two jars for 30 minutes, then remove the fabrics and wash them in clean water for 5 minutes. Open the stitches and take separate the pieces to dry in air.

    Examination: 6. Put the dyed yarn next to a sample of the same material which has not been tested, and compare the change that has taken place. Compare it also with the control sample with satisfactory properties. If the dyeing being tested shows equal or less variation then it is a good and satisfactory sample.

    7. Put the wool and cotton clothes next to samples of the same material which have not been tested and analyze them with the clothes that have been tested with satisfactory dyeing. Equal or less staining illustrates equal or better fastness.

    The procedure of dyeing

    Function of the Dye

    Dyeing can be done at any of the following steps in the textile production stage:
    . The fibres can be dyed before being spun. Fibre dyeing gives a deep penetration of the dye into the fibre, providing even color and outstanding color-fastness.
    . After spinning, the yarn can be dyed, but before the product is woven or otherwise fabricated. This is referred as Package dyeing.
    . Before the fabric is finished, it can be dyed in piece (piece dyeing).This process gives producers the opportunity to make fabrics in their natural colors, and then dye them to order.
    . Fabrics of two or more fibres can be dyed in cross-dyeing, so that each fibre accepts a different dyestuff and becomes a different color, through the use of suitable dyestuffs for each fibre. It is necessary to correctly identify the fibre or other fabric to be made before dyeing commences.

    Dyeing methods

    There are a many methods used to dye to a fabric. Though the most common method applied for natural dyes is the vat method, there are practices which have been developed to allow patterns to be built-in during the process of dyeing. Applying natural dyes is a complicated art and the skills needed for using natural dyes are gained with an experience of many years.

    Vat dyeing

    In this easiest way of dyeing, a textile material is dipped in dye and slowly brought to boil. Alternatively, the fibre is permitted to sit and soak for few hours or days. In this period, agitation is necessary to facilitate complete penetration of the textile by the dyestuff. According to the type of fabric and dyestuff applied, few salts or acids may be added to help absorption of the dye. The main problem in dyeing mixed yarns and fabrics is to receive the same color in both fibres. Cotton fibres may, for example absorbs dyes fast, while the wool fibres will have to be boiled over a so long time to achieve the same depth of shade. This could lead to a noteworthy damage to the material. In this case a chemical compound would be needed to be applied to hold back the rate at which the cotton fibre receives the dyestuff. The amount of dyestuff which is applied is normally provided in the recipe. It is normally quoted as a percentage weight of the fabric to be dyed.

    Below illustrates a standard, simple recipe for dyeing using natural dyestuff

    Recipe of dyeing wool with onion skins

    Fabric: appropriate for wool or other animal (protein) afibres.

    You will require:
    • natural wool - 100 grams
    • onion skins (the dry, brown, outer skins) - 30 grams
    • alum (the mordant) - 8 grams
    • cream of tartar (the assistant) - 7 grams
    • liquid detergent (the scouring agent)
    • water supply

    If a larger quantity of wool is to be dyed, increase the quantities to a proportionate degree. Weigh the wool. All weights mentioned above are comparative to the dry weight of the wool. Skeins of wool are tied loosely at many places to stop tangling. In this case the recipe calls for 30% dyestuff i.e. the weight of the dyestuff is 30% than that of the fabric to be dyed.

    The wool should be scoured, which means it should be fully clean. For this, the wool needs to be soaked all night in a liquid detergent solution. Then rinse the wool well and smoothly press out the extra water. Use lukewarm water and avoid sudden variations in temperature of the water which make the wool felt or mat. The skein will be the mordant. Dissolve alum and cream of tartar in a little hot water and then add the same solution to cool water in the mordant pot. Dip the wetted yarn and then put the pot on the heat source. Gradually increase the temperature to 82°C and boil for 45 minutes. Let it cool after which remove the wool and rinse well.

    To prepare the dye bath, put the onion skins in the dye pan and cover them with water. Gradually heat the dye bath to the boiling point. Boil for about 45 minutes, by which time the whole color should have been extracted from the onion skins. Remove it from the heat and allow it to cool and then strain the liquid form the skins.

    The dyeing process is then done. The mordanted and completely wetted fabric is put into the now cool dye bath. Replace the heat under the dye bath, bring the temperature to a boiling point and then immediately decrease the heat to 82°C and simmer for 45 minutes or until the wool has gained the required color. Remove the wool from the dye bath if no further process of dyeing is needed, or allow the fabric to cool with the liquid in the dye bath. Do not cool it with cold water to get quick results. When the skein of wool is cool, rinse it carefully by changing the water quite a few times until the water is clear, and then clean the skein of wool in soapy water, rinse and allow it to dry.

    Batik

    Batik is a starch resist-dyeing method developed in Indonesia. In this technique, to avoid the color entering certain areas of the fabric these areas are covered with molten wax. The fabric is starched before the design is being drawn upon it. The wax is applied with a type of cup with a fine pouring spout, normally made of copper. Batik paintings, as well as sarongs and lengths of fabric are made. When the fabric is dyed, all waxed areas resist the dyestuff. The wax is then removed by putting the fabric in boiling water.

    Tie-dyeing

    Tie-dyeing is a well known artesian dyeing method. In this resist-dyeing process, waxed thread is tightly tied around the areas selected to resist the colored dyestuff, and the fabric is dipped into the dye. The waxed thread is then removed and the fabric is dried. For each color to be added, this procedure is repeated.

    Obtaining odd colors

    Colors other than those obtained by simply using a single dye can be obtained by mixing dyes or dyeing a fabric more than once in various dye baths.

    Herbal wear

    Nowadays, herbal wear is also gaining a lot of importance due to its availability at cheaper rate and as garments used as medicine because of their medicinal properties. Generally, garments dyed with natural elements or plants, roots, seeds, flowers, leaves are called herbal wear. Herbal wear has medicinal properties:

    . It is anti-allergic.
    . It is anti-microbial.
    . It has antiseptic properties.
    . Such garments have a good breathability.
    . The fabric is also eco-friendly as the waste from such herbal dyeing can be transformed into manure. Fear And Courage In Starting A Work At Home Online
    From the free encyclopedia Wikipedia, courage, it also has been known as bravery and fortitude, it is the ability to confront fear, pain, danger, uncertainty or intimidation. These nouns appear as a contrast of the courage one.For many philosophers, the courage is associated with the the soul largeness. It is a sort of virtue. There are many species of courage. It has the courage for the fight against the injustices; the fight against the poverty; the courage to marry and to assume commitments with a person; the courage to take risks in new businesses and enterprises.But the principle feeling that contrast with courage is the fear. Since early children have learned to have fear of the dark one, of the animals, monsters and the other oldest resources of scaring them, in order to make them to obey us. Later, when they have grown, we demand them courage, even so we have prepared them all the time to feel fear.For some studious the fear is a creation of the proper man. It is something that we learn in our culture. It has a phrase that it says that the luck favors the audacious, the courageous ones, and it retracts the shy, the fearful ones.The courage is essential to start an online jobs work from home. It is not so different from offline business. But it demands a new perspective of making money.For instance, almost everything online is selling and buying using a credicard. You do not see your costumers or your sponsor, in case you become a member of an affiliated program.Courage on Internet marketing involves the ability of taking decisions. There are many offers out there and it leads you to make choices. The crucial question is: am I going to trust on a new proposal?If I could attempt to show you the courage aspect of everyday working from home online I just could say it resumes on to take short precise decisions. For instance: how to plan your everyday work connection with your goals? How do not lost time with secondary things?As the fear is a cultural learning felling, the courage is not a genetic inheritance. We acquire it inside our culture too. And the culture of online business is increasing each day. The modern world is in high speed visible transformation. It is considered that they have been almost 676 million people in the whole world that have had quick access to the Internet already, and, in this year, the worldwide commerce around the complex net will reach the trillions of dollar.So the courage to start a work at home online must be removed from the person proper experience of life. It is from its interact or other animal (protein) afibres.

    You will require:
    • natural wool - 100 grams
    • onion skins (the dry, brown, outer skins) - 30 grams
    • alum (the mordant) - 8 grams
    • cream of tartar (the assistant) - 7 grams
    • liquid detergent (the scouring agent)
    • water supply

    If a larger quantity of wool is to be dyed, increase the quantities to a proportionate degree. Weigh the wool. All weights mentioned above are comparative to the dry weight of the wool. Skeins of wool are tied loosely at many places to stop tangling. In this case the recipe calls for 30% dyestuff i.e. the weight of the dyestuff is 30% than that of the fabric to be dyed.

    The wool should be scoured, which means it should be fully clean. For this, the wool needs to be soaked all night in a liquid detergent solution. Then rinse the wool well and smoothly press out the extra water. Use lukewarm water and avoid sudden variations in temperature of the water which make the wool felt or mat. The skein will be the mordant. Dissolve alum and cream of tartar in a little hot water and then add the same solution to cool water in the mordant pot. Dip the wetted yarn and then put the pot on the heat source. Gradually increase the temperature to 82°C and boil for 45 minutes. Let it cool after which remove the wool and rinse well.

    To prepare the dye bath, put the onion skins in the dye pan and cover them with water. Gradually heat the dye bath to the boiling point. Boil for about 45 minutes, by which time the whole color should have been extracted from the onion skins. Remove it from the heat and allow it to cool and then strain the liquid form the skins.

    The dyeing process is then done. The mordanted and completely wetted fabric is put into the now cool dye bath. Replace the heat under the dye bath, bring the temperature to a boiling point and then immediately decrease the heat to 82°C and simmer for 45 minutes or until the wool has gained the required color. Remove the wool from the dye bath if no further process of dyeing is needed, or allow the fabric to cool with the liquid in the dye bath. Do not cool it with cold water to get quick results. When the skein of wool is cool, rinse it carefully by changing the water quite a few times until the water is clear, and then clean the skein of wool in soapy water, rinse and allow it to dry.

    Batik

    Batik is a starch resist-dyeing method developed in Indonesia. In this technique, to avoid the color entering certain areas of the fabric these areas are covered with molten wax. The fabric is starched before the design is being drawn upon it. The wax is applied with a type of cup with a fine pouring spout, normally made of copper. Batik paintings, as well as sarongs and lengths of fabric are made. When the fabric is dyed, all waxed areas resist the dyestuff. The wax is then removed by putting the fabric in boiling water.

    Tie-dyeing

    Tie-dyeing is a well known artesian dyeing method. In this resist-dyeing process, waxed thread is tightly tied around the areas selected to resist the colored dyestuff, and the fabric is dipped into the dye. The waxed thread is then removed and the fabric is dried. For each color to be added, this procedure is repeated.

    Obtaining odd colors

    Colors other than those obtained by simply using a single dye can be obtained by mixing dyes or dyeing a fabric more than once in various dye baths.

    Herbal wear

    Nowadays, herbal wear is also gaining a lot of importance due to its availability at cheaper rate and as garments used as medicine because of their medicinal properties. Generally, garments dyed with natural elements or plants, roots, seeds, flowers, leaves are called herbal wear. Herbal wear has medicinal properties:

    . It is anti-allergic.
    . It is anti-microbial.
    . It has antiseptic properties.
    . Such garments have a good breathability.
    . The fabric is also eco-friendly as the waste from such herbal dyeing can be transformed into manure.
    . It provides pollution free environment.

    Vegetable dyes

    Vegetable dyes are not new products. They have been used since many years in India and other countries for dyeing clothes and making paintings. In recent time, the significance of vegetable dyes has increased with much awareness about the harmful effects of chemical dyes. Mainly, Azo group of dyes and Naphthalene based dyes are reflected. Besides, European countries and USA have completely banned production and application of such synthetic colors. Really there is a huge prospect for Vegetable dyes since all of them are obtained from natural sources and are have no harmful effects. Production wise, they are simply biodegradable and pollution free.

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